Physical description
A brightly coloured kesi silk woven robe decorated with paired deer, longevity characters and meandering peony flowers.
At least 22 colours have been identified in the weave of the textile used to tailor the robe, in addition to gold.
Place of Origin
China (woven)
Date
1600 (woven)
post 1600 (altered)
Artist/maker
Unknown
Materials and Techniques
Silk tapestry (kesi)
Dimensions
Length: 113 cm, Width: 180 cm
Object history note
Registered File number 1985/1533.
'taken apart for conservation in the 1980s' (Wilson, Chinese Textiles, p. 76)
Descriptive line
Tex, China, tapestry weave (kesi), textile 17th century, tailored later. Seen by WYR
11 pieces; Tex, China, tapestry weave (kesi)
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Wilson, Verity, Chinese Textiles, London: V&A Publications, 2005, pp. 77 & 104, fig. 85 & 116
Production Note
The material was woven circa 1600, and tailored or altered later.
Materials
Silk; Metal thread
Techniques
Tapestry
Subjects depicted
Deer; Cranes; Peonies
Categories
Textiles; Men's clothes; Tapestry
Collection
East Asia Collection
This silk tapestry of bright colours and bold patterns was woven probably around 1600. The front and back of the robe indicate that the textile was consciously woven to be tailored later as a garment.
The various symbols used indicate that this textile might have been associated with a birthday. The Chinese word for deer is ‘lu’, and the deer becomes a symbol of rank and remuneration which are also signified by ‘lu’. The peony motif signifies wealth and distinction, while the crane and the longevity (‘shou’) characters are emblems of good wishes for a long life. This robe is the earliest datable whole garment in the V&A's collection of Chinese textiles.