Physical description
Man's jacket of embroidered silk satin and velvet, probably a theatrical costume. Orange velvet over painted with black ink to imitate the pelt of a tiger. Lined with red silk.
Theatrical Imperial Hunting Tunic, tunic with mandarin collar, front opening, slits at side seams and flaps under arms. Made of silk 'gobelin', brocade, velvet, satin, and embroidery. Decorations show the Chinese character of longevity, wan shou; lotus flowers and geometrical patterns. The velvet, representing the colour of a tiger's skin, symbolises physical strength and courage. There is also a flap at the centre front and the tunic is lined in red silk.
Place of Origin
China (made)
Date
18th century-19th century (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown
Materials and Techniques
Embroidered silk satin and velvet
Dimensions
Length: 90 cm from collar to base
Object history note
Registered File number 1947/374. From the collection of Bernard Vuilleumier.
Descriptive line
Man's hunting jacket, probably a theatrical costume, embroidered silk satin and velvet, China, Qing dynasty, 18th-19th century.
Materials
Silk
Techniques
Embroidering
Categories
Men's clothes; Textiles; Performance art; Theatre costumes
Collection
East Asia Collection
This visually striking garment came into the Museum in 1948. It was acquired from a Swiss collector, Bernard Vuilleumier, and it was part of the biggest group of Chinese dress ever purchased by the Museum up to that time. The detail here is from the decorated yoke of the jacket. This goes around each shoulder, with white satin edgings outlining its foliated margins. Shaped black velvet and a band of orange velvet, painted with black stripes to resemble a tiger, adds richness and lustre to the garment. The Museum records describe it as an imperial hunting tunic for a theatrical performance. Throughout most of the Qing dynasty (1644-1911) successive emperors made long excursions to their northern hunting parks to kill game, including tigers. During these hutns, foreign nobility, who did not live in Beijing, would renew their allegiance to the throne. Such presentations rituals might require clothes like the one here.