Physical description
Han Chinese woman's jacket (ao). Informal wear. Right side fastening (5 loop and knot buttons); long and wide sleeves, straight cuffs, slit at sides, small stand-up collar and cloud collar sewn on the top of the shoulders.Coral satin damask lining with self-patterned flowers. Navy blue cut velvet ground with self patterned large butterflies and flowers (prunus, chrysanthemum) scattered on the main body. The floral pattern and butterflies in the cut pile, the background in uncut pile. White satin sleeve-bands embroidered with lion, vase, flowers etc.. in couched gold thread and coloured silks in satin stitch and knot stitch. At the neck is an appliqued cloud collar of black satin, embroidered with flowers and a lot of different birds in coloured silks, mainly in satin stitch. The opening flap, the hem and the side slits are also trimmed with a narrow black bias-cut satin band, an heavily embroidered black satin band and an applied warp-patterned ribbon. the trimming take the shape of the ruyitou ( scroll) at the side slits opening.
Place of Origin
China (made)
Date
1850-1900 (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown
Materials and Techniques
Silk velvet, with embroidered edgings on satin ground
Dimensions
Length: 98 cm, Width: 123 cm
Object history note
This kind of jacket would have been worn by Han Chinese woman with a skirt or a trouser
Registered File number 1934/3321.
Descriptive line
Han Chinese woman's robe, silk velvet with embroidered edgings on satin gorund, China, Qing dynasty, 1850-1900
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Wilson, Verity. Chinese Dress, London: V&A Publications, 1986, Plate 36.
Materials
Silk (textile); Silk thread
Techniques
Velvet weave; Embroidered; Satin weave
Subjects depicted
Flowers; Butterflies
Categories
Women's clothes; Textiles; Clothing; Day wear; Embroidery; Informal wear
Collection
East Asia Collection